Support -> Sample College Curriculum -> Lesson 2 Instruction

Gather At Shoulder - This lesson provides a step by step instruction on how to add simple darts to a basic block and how to rotate darts to create a shirring on the shoulder. In the process, several essential methods such as adding lines, adding darts, transferring darts, blending curve and adding facing are demonstrated.

Step 1: We start with a basic block stored in the User Custom Curve/Block library. The user may store favorite blocks or curves in the library. The user may organize the blocks and curves by adding new folders. More than 1 block can be retrieved at once. Use the control key while clicking to make multiple selections. Then press the USE button.

Step 2: The basic block already has dart lines added .

Step 3: Basic block retrieved is not a production pattern. In order to convert it, right click inside the block and select the Convert to Pattern command. The block becomes a production pattern with grain line and other properties such as Name, Single/Pair, Qty, Marker Group etc.

Step 4: The default tool (Control Section) is used to manipulate sections. You may use it to move the grain line. Simply drag it to a new location.

Step 5: The strategy we use is to add darts to the existing dart lines first then transfer them to the shoulder. Let's add a 1 inch dart to the helm line. First select the T-section.

Step 6: Type V1 quickStep where V stands for V-dart and 1 (inch) is the width of the dart. Click the dart line close to the T-intersection. Notice when you move the cursor over the dart line, the T-intersection point turns blue.

Step 7: Repeat the same process at the side. Press the Enter key to recall the previous quickStep entry V1. Click the dart line.

Step 8: Now add a 1/4 inch dart to the armhole section. Select the T-section on the armhole section. Type V0.25 and click the dart line.

Step 9: We want to make the neck line deeper and wider. We add a new neck line using the PolyBezier Line tool. Select the tool (LMB+B). Enter 0.5 to widen the neck on the side by 1/2 inch. Click the shoulder line and the new neck line is started at precisely 1/2 inch away from the closest grading point (blue point).

Step 10: Let's say we want the neck line to be 2 inches lower in the front. Type 2 and right click the front line to complete the polyline. In order to shape the neck line, we use the powerful Bezier Blending method.

Step 11: Select the new neck line so that it turns red. Type BB quickStep and left click the line. Two Bezier Control Points are displayed. BB followed by a number provides the user with additional control points for more complex curve shapes.

Step 12: Drag the control points (red cross) to shape the neck line. When you are satisfied with the curve shape, hit the Enter key to keep the change. You can press the Keep button also. The ESC key cancels the change.

Step 13: Now we want to transfer the 3 darts to the shoulder to create more room for gathering. In order to add dart lines, select the PolyBezier Line tool. Type the convenient quickStep H (halfway) and click the shoulder line to start the dart line at halfway point.

Step 14: Right click to complete the dart line. Then add 2 more dart lines in similar manner. Use quickStep of 1 to distance the 2 dart lines 1 inch away from the first one.

Step 15: Transfer the darts to merge the 3 darts to single one on the helm line. Select the Dart Transfer tool (LMB+x). Transferring dart requires selection of 2 darts followed by dragging from a side of a dart to the other side. The dragged dart is closed and the other selected dart becomes wider. Repeat for the armhole dart.

Step 16: Transfer 1/3 of the dart to the first dart line on the shoulder. Repeat to evenly distribute to the other 2 dart lines.

Step 17: In order to remove the original neck line, we choose to cut the pattern into 2 pieces using the new neck line. Select the Cut tool (LMB + CC). Select the new neck line so that it turns red. Then left click the line to cut the pattern.

Step 18: Select the unnecessary piece and remove it by hitting the DELETE key. Selecting an entire piece should be done with the Control key down. This is called Group Level selection as opposed to Section Level selection.

Step 19: First switch to the default tool by hitting the space bar. Select unnecessary internal line and remove them by hitting the DELETE key.

Step 20: We blend the shoulder line to make it smooth. Select the entire shoulder section, type BB quickStep (Bezier Blending) and click the line to start the blending. Move the Bezier Control points to shape the shoulder curve.

Step 21: We saved the previous stage as the original pattern. (Refer to the video for this extra step) The original pattern is bascially a saved snapshot. It appears as light gray background. As you blend the curve, use the original pattern as guide line.

Step 22: After blending the side curve and the helm line.

Step 23: As the last step, let's make a 1 inch facing covering the neck line and the front. Select the facing tool (LMB + FF). Type 1 quickStep for 1 inch facing. Then select the facing area.

Step 24: The facing piece is made from the selected section with 1 inch width. Notice the marker group of Fusing 1 is automatically assigned to the piece (indicated by the light yellow fill color).

Step 25: We use the Unfold Facing tool to add the facing covering to the front piece. Select the Unfold Facing tool (LMB + FFF). Type 1 for 1 inch facing. Then select the facing area.

Step 26: In order to unfold the facing, we drag a line from one end of the mirror line to the other. This completes the operation and a unfolded facing shape is created.

The Final work.

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